Friday, March 25, 2022

Colombia 2022 - Day 8 Journal

Monday 2/21/2021 – We were up early to pack.  Daniel was at the hotel at 6:10 and we were off by 6:20. We drove up the same road toward PNN Los Nevados, and about halfway up turned into Hacienda de Bosque. Hacienda De Bosque is a 1000 hectare (about 2500 acres) working cattle ranch, that has added ecotourism in the past three years. The road up to the ecotourism area was incredibly steep, and we ended up at over 10,000 feet elevation.

 

At 7:00 we had a quick breakfast in a small restaurant with glass walls that gave great views of Mantizales in the valley far below. There was a group of 8 photographers from Spain that we’d run across at the previous day at Hotel Termales de Ruiz so we knew that things we going to get crowded again.

 

We drove back down to a parking area and hiked about 200 yards on a steep wet trail to the blind where the Equatorial Antpitta was fed. Daniel has spoken with the manager of the farm, Juan Martin, and he made sure that Teri and I both had good seats.

Mark in front. 

This was necessary because the Spaniards had a great deal of equipment including backpacks, tripods, extra cameras, etc. and had shown themselves to be completely discourteous the previous day. Reminded us of our experience with the French photographers in Ecuador last fall.

They started calling to the Antpitta and had tossed out some large grubs. First to take advantage were Gray-browed Brushfinches.

Gray-browed Brushfinch

Before long one, and then another Equatorial Antpitta showed up to feed. They jumped up on some nice moss-covered perches in the small clearing and everyone got great looks and photos. 


Equatorial Antpitta

From there the entire group headed off to a second viewing area, this time for Crescent-faced Antpitta. Once again Juan Martin made sure that Teri and I had good viewing positions. It didn’t take long for a handsome Crescent-faced Antpitta to appear on a nice perch, and again we got great looks and photos.


Crescent-faced Antpitta

Daniel asked if we had gotten good looks, and when I indicated that we had he motioned for Teri and I to join him.  We left the others and walked down to yet another viewing area, this time for Gray-breasted Mountain-Toucans. This was a much more open site, with horizontal perches set up about 5’ for the Mountain-Toucans to land on.

Putting out a new perch. 

Juan Martin had a bunch of grapes tied to the end of a long pole, and began calling “Tookie, tookie, tookie”. A Gray-breasted Mountain-Toucan appeared shortly and was treated to a couple of grapes. It flew off and was replaced by another.  All told we saw four different Mountain-Toucans. 

Gray-breasted Mountain-Toucan eating grapes


Gray-breasted Mountain-Toucan

There was also an Andean Guan at this location that also enjoyed plucking grapes from the bunch.

Andean Guan

We also enjoyed seeing a Slaty Brushfinch at this site. While not as striking as a Mountain-Toucan, it was a handsome bird and another lifer for us!

Slaty Brushfinch

It is gratifying to see operations like this dairy farm recognize that they have some good forest habitat and interesting birds.  Developing the sites a bit and hosting birders gives them an additional source of income, preserves the habitat, and gives others reason to consider conservation as well. Many farm operations in Colombia are preserving existing forest and even reforesting some land with the goal of developing ecotourism. 

We left a little after 10:00 and headed back up the road toward the National Park. Being Monday, it was so much quieter than the previous day, and the weather was better as well. We stopped several times to look for Paramo species that we’d missed the previous day. Things started out nice and sunny, but soon it clouded up and began to sprinkle, much as it had the previous day. Weather changes very quickly in the Andes!

Blue-backed Conebill

Golden-fronted Redstart

Paramo Seedeater - male

Rufous-collared Sparrow

At noon we stopped in at the previous day’s breakfast place and had lunch.


We all enjoyed soup and trout, and then headed out and upward to continue birding. After a little more birding we headed on to our next lodge, Rio Blanco.

It wasn’t too long a drive and we arrived at about 3:00.  The lodge had been closed since the start of COVID and had only recently re-opened. We think that we were the first post-COVID guests.

And it turned out that we were the only guests. They gave us an enormous room with three single beds and a large bathroom. We were pleased with the room but would find out later that the large size wasn’t a good thing after all. 


After relaxing for a bit we watched the hummingbird feeders around the lodge, and walked the grounds around the lodge. 

Bronzy Inca

Tourmaline Sunangel

In addition to the hummingbird feeders there were fruiting shrubs around the lodge, and there we spotted a Rufous-crowned Tody-Flycatcher. Flycatchers are usually plain and cryptically colored, so we appreciated this bright little fellow. It is now our favorite Tody-Flycatcher!

Rufous-crowned Tody-Flycatcher

The lodge is owned by the local water district, and they require an accompanying guide. Our guide was Luisa and she was very friendly. Daniel suggested that the four of us drive up to “The Ridge” to bird, but as soon as we got up there is started to rain, and then thunder. He didn’t want us to get caught up there in a storm, so we returned to the lodge, got the checklist updated, and then Daniel headed home for the night. He lives only about 30 minutes from Rio Blanco and decided to commute rather than stay.

Teri and I got caught up on a few things in the room, and then went to dinner at 6:30.  

Very cold in the room. 

It was odd in that they seated us at a table in the dining room, brought the food, and then closed the door and left. A very low-key operation!  

When we arrived at the lodge they had mentioned an alcohol heater in the room, and it was starting to get cold, so we asked that they show us how to light it. It was a very simple steel table with two slots that were filled with alcohol and then lit. It provided a welcome amount of heat, as the single portable electric heater in the room was on its last leg!  As night approached the room got colder and colder. I lit the alcohol heater and hoped that it would warm up the room, but it was a losing proposition. With the large room, high ceilings, and low outdoor temperature (around 50 degrees) it was going to be a cold night! 


Next time: Day 9

 

No comments:

Post a Comment