Thursday, March 31, 2022

Colombia 2022 - Day 9 Journal

Tuesday 2/22/2022 – Well last night was just cold and damp. Teri couldn’t get warm, so we ended up shoving our twin beds together and covering ourselves with blankets. She finally warmed up, but it was a night without much sleep. We made arrangement to change to a much smaller room with a single large bed for our second night. 

New room 

Breakfast 

We had breakfast at 6:30 and then headed out at 7:00 with Luisa to visit the site where the Bicolored Antpitta is fed. It was a small clearing with a single bench, and Luisa had a small bucket with worms and grubs to entice the bird. She called and called, and the bird called back once, but after thirty minutes we gave up. 

We got in the SUV and headed up the road toward the ridge that we had tried yesterday afternoon. About 2/3 of the way up Daniel pulled over to drop us off at a second feeding site, this one for the Chestnut-crowned Antpitta. 

Luisa spread about six earthworms along the top of a mossy perch, and the Antpitta appeared seconds later. We got amazing looks and pictures, and the Antpitta got some delicious worms. 

Chestnut-crowned Antpitta

She gathered up all of the worms in her mouth but didn’t eat them. Luisa said that she likely had nestlings and was taking the worms back to feed them.

Chestnut-crowned Antpitta

From that site we walked up the road to the ridge and started birding.

In one direction was a beautiful view down onto the nearby city of Manizales, where Daniel lives. The other direction was forest and mountain ridges. 

We walked the “long” stretch of road to the end, and then backtracked to the SUV.  After a short break we walked the “short” stretch of the road in the opposite direction. With both Luisa and Daniel looking and calling we got on many good birds. 

Black-eared Hemispingus

Blackburnian Warbler

Crimson-mantled Woodpecker

Montane Woodcreeper

The ridge road allows looks into the tops of the trees and adjacent down-slope forest. So instead of craning your neck to look up into the tops of trees towering over you, you can look sideways.

The white flecks
are ash from a nearby volcano.

We encountered a number of mixed feeding flocks and saw a nice variety of species. The highlight was Teri spotting a Tayra looking at us from a dead tree. The Tayra is the largest predator in the forest and is in the weasel family. I was a little slow with the camera and only got shots of it coming down the tree, but we were thrilled to have seen it.

Tayra!!

Orchid

We returned to the lodge at around noon and had lunch at 12:30. It started pouring rain while we ate, and so our afternoon plans were put on hold to see if the weather would clear. Teri and I were both ok with the delay, as we’ve been going pretty hard for more than a week now and welcomed a break. We’d decided to move over to a smaller room with a single bed and got set up in the new room. The lodge folks also found an electric heater that worked, and we got that going to take the chill off.

Daniel came to get us at around 2:30, and we did a little birding around the lodge.

Blue-capped Tanager

Blue-winged Mountain-Tanager

Buff-breasted Mountain-Tanager

We then headed back up to the ridge. I think that Daniel and Luisa were hoping to get a few of the species that we’d missed in the morning, but it was still wet and drippy and the birds didn’t cooperate. 

So we headed all the way back down the road to the entry station, to look for a specific hummingbird, the White-throated Daggerbill. This hummingbird feeds on a specific type of flowering shrub in the gardens of the entry station.  

White-throated Daggerbill’s
favorite flower. 

However, there are a couple of species of larger, more aggressive hummingbirds that attack it very quickly when it feeds, so Daniel warned us that we’d likely get only brief looks. We waited about 30 minutes before the hummer appeared, and sure enough a Collared Inca attacked it instantly and drove it away. A couple of minutes later it tried again, with the same result. But later I noticed it sitting quietly in the bush, and I took a few pictures of it. It then started to quietly feed and was able to do so for about 30 seconds before a Collared Inca appeared to run it off once again. 

White-throated Daggerbill

White-throated Daggerbill

The entry station area also has a short dam and some control structures, and we saw a White-capped Dipper on the surface of the dam feeding. We then went up behind the dam to a rushing creek and got to see Slaty-backed Chat-Tyrants.

Slaty-backed Chat-Tyrant

White-capped Dipper

Pretty flower.

We left the entry station and birded up and down the road, finding a few mixed flocks and some good birds.

Motmot nesting hole 

At one point Daniel said that he and Luisa might have a surprise for us, and we drove down to a spot on the road and got out. He showed us a female Lyre-tailed Nightjar sitting on a nest. 

Lyre-tailed Nightjar female on nest

As dusk approached we headed back to that same area, hoping to see male Lyre-tailed Nightjars doing their impressive flight display. We’d gotten a single long-distance look at this in Ecuador and looked forward to seeing it again. The display in Ecuador took place about 200’ above our heads, and we were amazed when these Colombian birds started to display just 20 – 30’ up.

The males have a magnificent pair of long tail feathers that they can open very wide and flutter in flight. We had a pair of males doing this right over our heads, and one male perched on top of a nearby fence post, and later in some overhanging branches. It was very dark, but with the aid of a flashlight I was able to get some pictures of the perched male. 


Lyre-tailed Nightjar male

Before we left Daniel wanted to check the nest that we’d seen earlier in the day for an egg, as the female had left to feed. As we approached the nest we were shocked to find not an egg, but a furry white chick. We beat a hasty retreat so as not to disturb the check, and with the aid of a flashlight I got a decent picture.

Lyre-tailed Nightjar chick

We tried for owls on the way back but didn’t have any luck. We arrived back at the lodge a little after 7:00 and immediately sat down to a nice dinner. 

Very filling chicken soup.


Next time: Day 10 

Friday, March 25, 2022

Colombia 2022 - Day 8 Journal

Monday 2/21/2021 – We were up early to pack.  Daniel was at the hotel at 6:10 and we were off by 6:20. We drove up the same road toward PNN Los Nevados, and about halfway up turned into Hacienda de Bosque. Hacienda De Bosque is a 1000 hectare (about 2500 acres) working cattle ranch, that has added ecotourism in the past three years. The road up to the ecotourism area was incredibly steep, and we ended up at over 10,000 feet elevation.

 

At 7:00 we had a quick breakfast in a small restaurant with glass walls that gave great views of Mantizales in the valley far below. There was a group of 8 photographers from Spain that we’d run across at the previous day at Hotel Termales de Ruiz so we knew that things we going to get crowded again.

 

We drove back down to a parking area and hiked about 200 yards on a steep wet trail to the blind where the Equatorial Antpitta was fed. Daniel has spoken with the manager of the farm, Juan Martin, and he made sure that Teri and I both had good seats.

Mark in front. 

This was necessary because the Spaniards had a great deal of equipment including backpacks, tripods, extra cameras, etc. and had shown themselves to be completely discourteous the previous day. Reminded us of our experience with the French photographers in Ecuador last fall.

They started calling to the Antpitta and had tossed out some large grubs. First to take advantage were Gray-browed Brushfinches.

Gray-browed Brushfinch

Before long one, and then another Equatorial Antpitta showed up to feed. They jumped up on some nice moss-covered perches in the small clearing and everyone got great looks and photos. 


Equatorial Antpitta

From there the entire group headed off to a second viewing area, this time for Crescent-faced Antpitta. Once again Juan Martin made sure that Teri and I had good viewing positions. It didn’t take long for a handsome Crescent-faced Antpitta to appear on a nice perch, and again we got great looks and photos.


Crescent-faced Antpitta

Daniel asked if we had gotten good looks, and when I indicated that we had he motioned for Teri and I to join him.  We left the others and walked down to yet another viewing area, this time for Gray-breasted Mountain-Toucans. This was a much more open site, with horizontal perches set up about 5’ for the Mountain-Toucans to land on.

Putting out a new perch. 

Juan Martin had a bunch of grapes tied to the end of a long pole, and began calling “Tookie, tookie, tookie”. A Gray-breasted Mountain-Toucan appeared shortly and was treated to a couple of grapes. It flew off and was replaced by another.  All told we saw four different Mountain-Toucans. 

Gray-breasted Mountain-Toucan eating grapes


Gray-breasted Mountain-Toucan

There was also an Andean Guan at this location that also enjoyed plucking grapes from the bunch.

Andean Guan

We also enjoyed seeing a Slaty Brushfinch at this site. While not as striking as a Mountain-Toucan, it was a handsome bird and another lifer for us!

Slaty Brushfinch

It is gratifying to see operations like this dairy farm recognize that they have some good forest habitat and interesting birds.  Developing the sites a bit and hosting birders gives them an additional source of income, preserves the habitat, and gives others reason to consider conservation as well. Many farm operations in Colombia are preserving existing forest and even reforesting some land with the goal of developing ecotourism. 

We left a little after 10:00 and headed back up the road toward the National Park. Being Monday, it was so much quieter than the previous day, and the weather was better as well. We stopped several times to look for Paramo species that we’d missed the previous day. Things started out nice and sunny, but soon it clouded up and began to sprinkle, much as it had the previous day. Weather changes very quickly in the Andes!

Blue-backed Conebill

Golden-fronted Redstart

Paramo Seedeater - male

Rufous-collared Sparrow

At noon we stopped in at the previous day’s breakfast place and had lunch.


We all enjoyed soup and trout, and then headed out and upward to continue birding. After a little more birding we headed on to our next lodge, Rio Blanco.

It wasn’t too long a drive and we arrived at about 3:00.  The lodge had been closed since the start of COVID and had only recently re-opened. We think that we were the first post-COVID guests.

And it turned out that we were the only guests. They gave us an enormous room with three single beds and a large bathroom. We were pleased with the room but would find out later that the large size wasn’t a good thing after all. 


After relaxing for a bit we watched the hummingbird feeders around the lodge, and walked the grounds around the lodge. 

Bronzy Inca

Tourmaline Sunangel

In addition to the hummingbird feeders there were fruiting shrubs around the lodge, and there we spotted a Rufous-crowned Tody-Flycatcher. Flycatchers are usually plain and cryptically colored, so we appreciated this bright little fellow. It is now our favorite Tody-Flycatcher!

Rufous-crowned Tody-Flycatcher

The lodge is owned by the local water district, and they require an accompanying guide. Our guide was Luisa and she was very friendly. Daniel suggested that the four of us drive up to “The Ridge” to bird, but as soon as we got up there is started to rain, and then thunder. He didn’t want us to get caught up there in a storm, so we returned to the lodge, got the checklist updated, and then Daniel headed home for the night. He lives only about 30 minutes from Rio Blanco and decided to commute rather than stay.

Teri and I got caught up on a few things in the room, and then went to dinner at 6:30.  

Very cold in the room. 

It was odd in that they seated us at a table in the dining room, brought the food, and then closed the door and left. A very low-key operation!  

When we arrived at the lodge they had mentioned an alcohol heater in the room, and it was starting to get cold, so we asked that they show us how to light it. It was a very simple steel table with two slots that were filled with alcohol and then lit. It provided a welcome amount of heat, as the single portable electric heater in the room was on its last leg!  As night approached the room got colder and colder. I lit the alcohol heater and hoped that it would warm up the room, but it was a losing proposition. With the large room, high ceilings, and low outdoor temperature (around 50 degrees) it was going to be a cold night! 


Next time: Day 9