Tuesday, October 12, 2021

Tandayapa Lodge – Ecuador – Part 3

Monday 9/13/21 (Teri)

We all met out on the deck at 6 am.  The lodge has a white sheet that they keep a black light on during the night.  It’s great to see interesting insects and the birds love them!

Breakfast was 7 – 7:30 am.  Eggs over-easy on toast with some very strong cheese and bell pepper.

We got all our stuff together (binos, cameras, walking sticks, etc.) and hit the trails at 8:00.

Orchid hanging over the trail.

The trail was very steep up and down and had a lot of rocks and tree roots.  I was having a pretty hard time even with a walking stick and Mark had to help me on most of the down hill parts. 

Red bananas.
Good for critters – not for humans!

We got back to the lodge about 11:00 and found that 4 other people had arrived to stay at the lodge.  Luckily they only stayed for 2 nights.  They were very impolite birders! 

Lunch was at noon.  It started with green lentil soup which was very good.  Spaghetti and meatballs with a light dessert ended the meal.

Everyone relaxed until 2:30 then we headed down the driveway to do some birding along the road.

The driveway 

When we got down the road Edison (our driver) picked us up and we drove to another area.  Along the way we stopped to see a baby Cock-of-the-Rock.  He was super cute!

The driveway up to the lodge is extremely steep.  We had been having rain and it was also quite slick.  After a couple of attempts, Edison decided he could not get the van up the hill.  We were not too far from the top so we all got out and walked the rest of the way. 

Dinner was at 6:30 and started with kale soup.  Every lunch and dinner we had at the lodge started with soup.  The kale soup was the only one that I didn’t care for.  The rest of dinner was fish with white rice, plantain chips, 2 tiny beets and for dessert, a tree tomato (edible fruit from the Tamarillo tree). We went over the bird list after dinner and then headed to our room for the evening.

Monday, 9/13/2021 (Mark) -  Got up at 5:30, and met on the deck to view hummingbirds and other species at 6:00. We started by looking for insect-eating birds at the black-light setup. The black-light attracts insects, which land on a white sheet. Early in the morning forest-dwelling birds that are otherwise tough to find visit the set-up for an easy meal. 

Scaly-throated Foliage-Gleaner

Spotted Woodcreeper

Lineated Foliage-Gleaner

The Crimson-rumped Toucanet and Toucan Barbet were active on the fruit feeder in front. 


Crimson-rumped Toucanet


Toucan Barbet

There was also an interesting Flame-rumped Tanager. It appeared to be a young male that was molting into his jet-black adult plumage. For this species, the juvenile plumage resembles that of the plainer female, in this case yellowish. So this young fellow was rocking an interesting mix of yellow and black!

Flame-rumped Tanager - Juvenile male

Flame-rumped Tanager male for comparison

At 7:00 we had breakfast, then at 8:00 we headed down the Potoo trail at the lodge. 

We birded along this steep and rocky trail until 10:45 but didn’t see a lot of birds. This often seems to be the case on narrow forest trails. We did pick up Plain Antvireo and Slaty Antwren, along with Grey-breasted Wood-Wren, and Pale-eyed Thrush. We also had nice looks at a female Red-headed Barbet. But pictures are tough to get in the deep, dark forest!

Pale-eyed Thrush

We came back and birded and photographed on the decks, but there were 4 French men that were standing literally 2 or 3’ feet from the various hummingbird feeders with their cameras and didn't care one bit that they were blocking the view for others, so we finally just found a different area to sit and relax. 

Lunch was at 12:30, and at 2:30 we walked down the drive, birding along the way. At the bottom we got in the van and drove the road to bird the “Lower Tandayapa Valley” by stopping at a few different spots and walking. We didn't see a lot of birds, but did get decent looks at  Montane Woodcreeper and Marble-faced Bristle-Tyrant. There are around 10,000 species of birds in the world, so you can see why some of these complex and imaginative names are necessary!

Montane Woodcreeper

Marble-faced Bristle-Tyrant

At one place we stopped and José asked if we’d like to see a female Cock-of-the-Rock nest. I thought he was kidding, but sure enough there was a hollowed out place in a mud bank alongside the road, with a female Cock-of-the-Rock sitting in it. She flew pretty quickly, leaving behind a truly ugly nestling with stringy “hair” sticking out from the top of its head and an oversized bill. It looked like a Pterodactyl. Later José called in a nice Golden-headed Quetzal male.

Andean Cock-of-the-Rock female on nest

Andean Cock-of-the-Rock nestling

Golden-headed Quetzal

We ended the trip standing on the road for what seemed like 30 minutes trying to call down a Cloudforest Pygmy-Owl, but it never came down.

The drive back to the lodge went well until we got onto the incredibly steep cobblestone drive going up to the lodge from the road. It had drizzled some and the road was very slick. We got stuck on the last part with spinning tires. Edison backed down twice and tried to get up some momentum, but we spun out each time. We finally got out and walked the last 50 yards back up to the lodge. Dinner was at 6:30, then we did the bird list and called it a night. We’d picked up some good birds, but overall it seemed like kind of a slow day.

Next time: Milpe Bird Sanctuary


Sunday, October 10, 2021

Yanacocha Reserve – Ecuador – Part 2

Sunday 9/12/21 

(Teri) We were up and packed before 5 am.  The hotel had left a boxed breakfast for us and we were ready to be picked up at 6 am.  Our guide (Jose) and driver (Edison) were right on time and we were off to Yanacocha Reserve. 

The reserve is 2667 acres.  At over 11,000’ it was a little chilly and rainy. 


There were a couple of covered areas where we were able to get out of the misty rain.

Yanacocha Reserve was created with the aim of preserving the Black-breasted Puffleg hummingbird, which is critically threatened.

We didn’t see this Puffleg but we saw plenty other birds.  There were also many beautiful flowers.

Red Angel Trumpet



 

We had a very good box lunch of deli sandwiches.  I also discovered the best snack in Ecuador – Plantain (banana) chips! 

We headed to Tandayapa Lodge.  This is the lodge we will be staying at throughout this trip.

We arrived about 4:30 and while our luggage was being brought to our room, we went out on the back deck.

Even with the rain, the hummingbirds were everywhere! 

Mark and Jose on the Hummingbird Deck.

We got set up in our room and looked around a little before heading back out to the hummingbird deck. 

There are 10 rooms inside the lodge with an additional 2 outer rooms away from the main lodge.

Dining room

Sitting area

We spent some time on the back deck before heading in to go over the bird list for the morning. 

Dinner was at 6:30.  We started with a wonderful carrot soup covered with puff pastry. The rest of the meal was grilled chicken, broccoli, and white rice.  Chocolate cake was the dessert.  It wasn’t anything special and certainly wasn't the “Mediterranean style” food we were accustomed to.

Our room was pretty basic.  It did have a closet with shelves which came in handy.  The bathroom was tiny with no hooks or anywhere to hang clothes.  The only soap was a bottle of liquid hand soap.  Everything was fine but we were expecting a little bit more upscale than this. 

Our room

The rooms are not heated or cooled.  It was a little chilly.

Sunday, 9/12/2021 (Mark) – We got up at 5:00 am, finished packing, and took our bags out to the lobby at 5:30. The hotel had prepared box breakfasts for us, consisting of fruit, muffins, juice, yogurt, and ham & cheese sandwiches. We ate some fruit and the muffin and packed the rest away for later.

At 6:00 our guide, José Illanes and driver, Edison picked us up and we headed toward Yanacocha Preserve. After almost two hours of driving, with the final miles being on steep, lumpy gravel roads, we arrived.

Our very first birds were Andean Guans which were sitting in trees adjacent to the parking area. 


Andean Guan

Our first stop was a hummingbird feeder station near the parking area. Yanacocha had not been open much during the pandemic, and there was no juice in the feeders. A staff member quickly took care of that, and we were soon watching Shining Sunbeams and Buff-winged Starfrontlets which were the main hummingbirds at the feeders. Fun fact:  Most hummingbirds in Ecuador don't have "hummingbird" in their name!!  Stay tuned for more...

Shining Sunbeam

Shining Sunbeam, showing the "shining" part

Buff-winged Starfrontlet

Another pan of sugar water was attracting plenty of Masked and Glossy Flowerpiercers. 


Masked Flowerpiercer


Glossy Flowerpiercer

As we continued to watch the feeders we added Sword-billed Hummingbird. 

Sword-billed Hummingbird

Sword-billed Hummingbird

Yanacocha is at 11,000 feet, so it was pretty chilly up there, and the sky was cloudy and gray. José suggested that we start hiking, and since it was cool and starting to drizzle everyone added a layer or two. It started to drizzle a bit harder, and things were getting wet. We walked about 1.5 miles and saw virtually nothing until we arrived at a second set of feeders and a covered shelter. 

There we added Sapphire-vented and Golden-breasted Puffleg, Great Sapphirewing, and Tyrian Metaltail hummingbirds.

Sapphire-vented Puffleg

Golden-breasted Puffleg

Great Sapphirewing

The sun came out for just a bit (weather changes quickly in the cloud forest!) and we started back. We got into a few mixed flocks as we made our way back to the parking area, and saw quite a few Spectacled Redstarts and Cinereous Conebills. 

Spectacled Redstart

Our best birds were Crimson-mantled Woodpecker, Red-crested Cotinga and Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanager. 

Crimson-mantled Woodpecker

Red-crested Cotinga

Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanagers

We ate a simple lunch of sandwich, juice, and chips at the feeding station next to the parking area, and then loaded up for our drive to Tandayapa Reserve, where we would be spending the rest of our nights. The drive took about 3 hours, and included several stops to bird alongside the road where José either knew there were good birds, or he’d seen them while we were driving. 

We arrived at Tandayapa at 4:30 and went immediately to the back viewing deck where there were swarms of hummingbirds. This is Tandayapa's “claim to fame” and it didn’t disappoint. We got 13 species of hummingbirds within just 15 minutes, and later added several more.

Booted Racket-tail - male

Lesser Violetear

We met José and Tracy at 6:00 to go over the bird list for the day, and found that we’d seen 22 different species of hummingbirds, and 54 species total. A good day overall! We had a nice dinner of soup, chicken, and a piece of chocolate cake, and then returned to our room for showers and reading. The lodge is not heated or cooled, so room temperature is the same as outside temperature, which is a cool 60 degrees! No more warm stuffy room!!

Next time: Tandayapa Lodge – birding the trails.


Thursday, October 7, 2021

Latitude: 0° 00' 0.00" N - Ecuador – Part 1

September 9 - 11 

(Mark)

Teri and I visited Ecuador in 2008 before we retired. We had been on four international birding trips previously, and thought that we knew what the pace would be like. However, we got paired up with a young British guide who was an absolutely rabid birder, and we went from before sunup till after sundown for twelve straight days!  We ended up seeing 431 species of birds, but were so overwhelmed by the pace that we often talked about returning to Ecuador and doing it in a more relaxed manner.  

This is our Ecuador Trip, ver. 2.0

(Teri)

Several months ago, we came across YouTube videos from a company called Tropical Birding.  The videos were hosted by their bird guides and talked about bird trips from all over the world. 

In the past, we have always traveled as “independent travelers”, meaning we were not in a group with other birders that we didn’t know.  We started talking about trying a group trip with Tropical Birding.  They have many packaged deals and seemed like a very easy way to book a trip.

Mark called them up and we signed up for our trip.  Our experiment to see if we would enjoy a group type birding trip didn’t really pan out because there ended up being only one other person on the trip.  

We did our usual "night before our flight" at a hotel in San Antonio.  We always have very early flights out and since the airport is 1½ hours from our house, it makes it a lot easier on us.  Also, we can leave our car at the hotel for up to two weeks for only $20!

We flew from San Antonio to Miami.  We had an 8-hour layover so Mark booked us a day-room.  I had never heard of such a thing, but it turned out to be a great idea.  It was nice to be able to relax and take off our masks.  The time went quickly and we were back on a plane and heading to Quito, Ecuador by 5:30 that evening.

Quito is at an elevation of a little over 9,000 feet.  Since we were going to spend much of our 2 weeks at higher elevations, Mark thought it would be a good idea for us to spend an extra day in Quito.  It would also keep us from having another early morning with a long day of traveling.


Hostería Rincon de Puembo

We came across the only other person on our group and spent some time birding in the hotel gardens with her and having dinner before our official trip started.




Thursday, 9/9/2021 (Mark)

We drove to San Antonio at about 5:30 pm. Stayed at the Airport La Quinta and paid $20 to leave the car there for two weeks. I ordered an Uber for 4:00 am the next morning as we didn’t want to risk not getting one on time. Turned out to be very expensive $35 because of the “pre-order”. 

Friday, 9/10/2021

Uber driver showed up a little early and we were at the airport by 4:00 am. Got checked in, went through security (seems like the most frantic part of traveling) and were at our gate with loads of time to spare. Our flight to Miami left at 5:30 and we arrived at around 9:30 (EDT). Because of a very long layover (Our flight to Quito didn’t leave until 5:30 pm) I’d booked a day-room at the Miami International Airport Hotel. It took us a little while to figure out where the hotel was, but we located it and got our room. Turned out to be a great idea, as I’d been feeling a little under the weather, and was able to nap off and on for several hours. Teri got a little sleep as well.

We left the hotel, went back through security, and were at our gate by around 4:30 pm. The flight to Quito left on time, and we landed at 8:30 pm (CDT). We got through immigration quickly and easily but waited quite a while for the bags to come off. Once we had our luggage we found our driver right outside waiting for us, and we got to the hotel within about 25 minutes.

The Hostería Rincon de Puembo is an older hotel, with many arched windows, confusing passageways, little courtyards, etc. It is actually in the Best Western chain! By the time we got settled in it was after 10:00 pm, and we were so glad to have added this extra night. Otherwise we’d be up at 5:30 am for breakfast and heading out at 6:00

Saturday, 9/11/2021

We both had so-so nights. Being in a new place, with no fan to move the air and the unfamiliar street noises, etc. made for a restless night. But we slept in late and headed off for breakfast. We had some fruit, bread, and an omelet. No black beans and rice, so we know we’re not in Costa Rica!

After breakfast we walked out to the gardens and spotted a single lady with binoculars. We’d learned that there was only one other person on our tour, and her name was Tracy. We introduced ourselves and talked with her a bit. She was a 70ish year old lady from Syracuse, New York and had been birding for about three years. But in that time, she’d taken several international birding trips. She was a botanist by profession and would spend much of the time in the following days looking at plants rather than birds.

There were some interesting birds around, so we headed back to the room for our binoculars, and then I went back again for my camera. It was a small garden, but there were some flowering and fruiting trees and we got good looks at some nice birds like Golden Grosbeak, Golden-rumped Euphonia, Scrub Tanager and Sparkling Violetear.

Golden Grosbeak

Golden-rumped Euphonia - female

Golden-rumped Euphonia - male

Great Thrush - male

Scrub Tanager

Teri and I decided to skip lunch since we’d had a late breakfast, and we arranged to meet Tracy at 6:30 for dinner. We sat around the room for a couple of hours, reading and relaxing, and them went back out to the garden.

The hotel was hosting a college reunion and what seemed like a separate family reunion, so there were lots of folks wandering around, swimming, playing pool, etc. We saw most of the same birds we’d seen that morning, and then headed back to the room when it started to sprinkle.

We heard Tracy leave her room at 6:00, so went out to join her. We ended up in the dining room and went ahead and ordered our dinner. It was three full courses and too much food. We went back to our rooms for another so-so night’s sleep. The main issue seemed to be that in spite of outdoor temps in the 50’s the room stayed up in the mid-70’s. Even opening the patio door didn’t do much to cool it off.

Next time: Yanacocha Reserve.